Shopping for Thai Silk

Ban Pa- Ao village is 1 hour by bus from Ubon. I heard that I could see brass making but what I was really interested was to wander around small, traditional village, take some photos. So I hopped on the bus and 1 hour later I was there. It was almost afternoon, so the village had gone for siesta. There was no one around. I could only hear some music coming from somewhere. So I followed the sound and found myself in the garden of the Wat. There some local women were decorating a lorry for a celebration. I never found out what the celebration was about, as no one spoke a word of English. They invited me to eat with them and since I was starving I accepted the offer. Everyone sat around one bowl of soup and as if it was some kind of ritual, they passed the spoon around. When it was my turn, I looked at the soup and only judging by the bright red colour I imagined how spicy it would be. But it was too late. I was committed. So I had a spoonful and tears came into my eyes. I was on fire. But to everyone else it was highly entertaining. Apparently, Thai laugh at minor accidents as an attempt to save on behalf of the person undergoing the mishap.

After the lunch, I was assigned a “guide” to take me around the village. She took me to different places, including the workshop where few men were crafting brass and bronze objects using wax casting method. And she talked and talked and talked. I kept on saying the phrase which was given in the LP for “I don’t understand” but, as in Thai everything depends on intonation, must have been pronouncing wrongly because she seemed not to understand that I couldn’t understand not even a word of what she was saying. In the end I gave up and just listened and smiled.

And even though that I didn’t understand a word I really enjoyed the walk with her and I enjoyed watching her speak, trying to pay attention for repeating words and corresponding gestures, which I was hoping to give me more of an idea of what she was saying.

Later she took me to the house of an old lady who was weaving silk (I assumed it was silk). Apparently the best silk in the world comes from Thailand and particularly from this region which is famous for certain technique called Mat Mii, which consists of abstract colorful patterns and it involves a very complicated process. Each village has its own pattern. So what this old woman was producing were unique pieces which would not be available even in the next village.

I really wanted to buy one of the materials but didn’t know if it was silk for sure, didn’t know the price…

As the communication was failing they went to fetch by motorcycle the only person in the village who spoke English. It turned out that old woman had worked in Dubai for 10 years and was a much respected member of the community for that reason. She translated my doubts to the old lady. In India I was told that a real silk if burnt should smell of hair and shouldn’t melt as the polyester does. So the owner of the precious material went in and came back with box of matches and a little bowl in her hand. We burnt the thread and after having established that it had the right smell, in order to clear any last doubts I might have had regarding the authenticity of the silk, she showed me proudly the little bowl full with silk worms. Apparently she had done everything herself, starting from the actual silk thread. I was happy with that and handed the money (not without a bit of bargaining, which I regretted after). Everyone smiled and shoved a silk worm in their mouths! Then it was my turn!!!I I couldn’t do it! But I had 3 pairs of eyes looking at me. I couldn’t say no, that would mean to offend them, to make them loose face, which apparently in Thai culture is a no, no.

So I just had so get a handful and stick them in my mouth and to be honest it wasn’t that bad. Maybe it is not my favorite thing but if I have to eat it more often I might even like them!